Due to the fact that the number of fans of exotic fish is growing every year. For many, the question arose of how to provide biofiltration for an aquarium. As for the successful keeping and breeding of fish demanding to water quality (discus, L-catfish, stingrays and also large fish that highly pollute the water),.
For aquariums with a capacity of 100–200 l., To ensure biofiltration, an external filter is quite suitable for the manufacture of which I told earlier. But for aquariums of 400 liters, I would recommend to build.
– a separate tank communicating with an aquarium is a separate aquarium in which you can place all the aquarium equipment (pump, water pump, heater).
Of course, SAMP will work as soon as some time later (a month or more), when nitrifying bacteria colonize the substrate in the filter (bio-spheres, lava, expanded clay and any porous material). And the greater the colony of nitrifying bacteria, the less you will have problems with the growth and development of your fish.
– easier to maintain (wash sponge),
– you can hide all the equipment,
– may contain a large amount of substrate
– it is possible to prevent the death of nitrifying bacteria, in the event of a power outage, due to the location of air dispensers connected to a backup water pump under the substrate,
– cheaper to manufacture, compared with the external filter,
– for SAMPA, circulation of 2-5 volumes of the aquarium is sufficient; therefore, a weaker pump can be used,
– the total volume of the aquarium increases, so you can not be afraid of overpopulation in the aquarium (provided that the fish are not territorial).
– it is necessary to drill a hole in the aquarium (at least 1 hole),
– difficulty in setting up the drain, to ensure silence of the drain,
– additional free space is required for placing the SAMP under the aquarium (or on the side),
– it is necessary (but not necessary) to have a sewage system (to drain the water), and a water supply system for adding (ducts) when the water evaporates.
The first compartment is designed for mechanical water treatment. It can be loaded, washcloths, sponges, synthetic winterizer, crumpled skein of fishing line. Moreover, it is desirable to use washcloths with varying degrees of porosity so that they do not get clogged quickly, and thus the water is well filtered.
At the bottom it is imperative to put an elastic plastic mesh (you can use the bottom of plastic boxes for fruit) on the racks.
The 2nd and 3rd compartment is filled with a substrate (bio-balls, lava, expanded clay and any porous material that does not add water hardness) to colonize nitrifying bacteria. Arranged under the net sprayers connected to the water pump.
In the fourth compartment installed 200W heater. In my case, the discus needs a temperature of 28-30 degrees, so I used two heaters for a 400-l aquarium. The second heater is located in the aquarium.
In the fifth – the return compartment is installed pump (in my case, at 2500l / h for 400l. Aquarium)
If the SAMPA length is less than 50 cm, it is desirable then to simplify the construction, for this, 2.3 and 4 compartments can be combined by removing partitions.
The first compartment is desirable to do not have 10 cm., So that the water had time to filter. If you make the compartment narrower, then you will have to wash the washcloths more often, as they will get clogged faster.
The last compartment should contain the water that can merge from the aquarium in the event of stopping the pump a couple of liters of water supply for the pump. For example, the area of your aquarium is 1500×600, when the pump is running, the water level in the aquarium rises approximately 20 mm. It turns out 15 6 0.2 = 18 liters will merge into the SAMP when the pump stops. Therefore, the return compartment should accommodate 20-22l.
The partition in the last compartment can be made slightly inclined so that the water does not fall from a height but runs down it. This will make the sump quieter and there will be less boiling and bubbles.
Unfortunately, I didn’t take a picture of the process of making SAMPA, so I’ll try to explain it in pictures.
To begin with, we determine the size of our future biofilter for an aquarium (I chose my size based on the size of the bollard).
We glue the body according to the same principle as the aquarium, which I described in the previous article. Glass thickness for the case I recommend using at least 5mm. (personally, for the manufacture of my biofilter, I used 6mm.), partitions can be made from 4mm. glass
After the gluing of the biofilter housing is finished, it must be dried and filled with water to check for leaks. After this, we begin to glue the partitions.
The first and third partition must be glued at a distance of 2 cm from the bottom, for convenience, under the partition you can put a piece of foam of the appropriate thickness. Glue places are thoroughly degreased. Do not forget that there must necessarily be gaps between the partitions and the side walls of 1-2 mm. Further, these gaps are blown by silicone.
If you want everything to work out beautifully, it is desirable to glue the partitions not all at once, but in turn, so that when you follow the next, do not disturb the layout of the previous ones.
When inserting 2 and 4 partitions, it is necessary to put a match under them to ensure a gap of 2 mm. (which will later be filled with silicone).
In the end, should get something like this design.
I consider the most reliable device for draining water from an aquarium into a SAMP – an overflow shaft. It can be done in two ways.
Installing a drain in the bottom of the aquarium.
Installing a drain in the side wall
A “comb” is stuck on the shaft to prevent the suction of large debris (algae) that can clog the drain. As a comb, you can use a comb, or a fragment of the back cover from an old TV.
The size of the overflow shaft in my aquarium is 180×120, glued from 6 mm. glass When choosing a height, consider that the comb will still stick, and the water level will rise by 1-2 cm from the bottom slot of the comb. the shaft must be sealed so that in the event of an unexpected depressurization of the drain you do not leak out the entire aquarium.
The size of the mine came from the fact that I decided to install an additional return pipe, and for this I had to drill two holes.
When the main thing is to gain courage. This procedure is not for the faint of heart, for this I recommend to practice on a separate piece of glass.
1. Hold the drill smoothly, it is desirable that the second person controls this process (on 10mm glass the bias will be noticeable);
2. Drill the glass at minimum speed;
3. Constantly add water to the place of drilling (it cannot be done on a dry one), for convenience, you can mold a side of plasticine around the hole;
4. Do not press the drill.
For drilling holes d-28 mm. It took me 30 minutes
As transitional couplings used threaded joints of PVC pipes mounted on silicone.
For the drain pipe used 1 "connection, and for the return pipe 3/4".
But the drain system after a year of operation.
All pipes are used PVC, their advantage is that even without the use of glue, they securely hold in the joints.
PVC wall thickness 2mm.
In the pedestal cover, two holes are drilled for the outlet of pipes. As you notice the drain pipe with 1 "goes to 3/4".
In order not to drill holes in the aquarium, you can: or use a simpler but expensive solution – use the Aqua Medic overflow tank. The cost of such a device fluctuates around 250-400, as for me it is very expensive.
It is enough to hang the overflow tank on the wall of the aquarium and after switching on the tank in the cycle the water level in the aquarium remains constant. The principle of the overflow tank can be seen below.
To save family budget, many aquarists collect pipe overflow system.
Such a pipe system hides easily behind an aquarium. But there is a drawback in such a system, if suddenly the system stops due to a lack of electricity, it can become airborne, and the entire circulation in the aquarium will stop.
Lastly, I want to note that the SAMP (biofilter for the aquarium) can be used with additional benefit. You can, for example, in the substrate (you only need to provide adequate lighting), so you will 🙂 Strawberries will feed on the waste of fish that are in the water, thereby reducing nitrate levels, which in turn is beneficial for the growth of fish, such a system is called akvaponika.
There too oche meaningful branch of the discussion of the article. Many conflicting opinions and additional information.